Please undertake the following steps AND view our video IMMEDIATELY AFTER completing installation, to avoid your bike's system detecting unexpected readings and throwing error codes in your ECU's history and and on your instrument cluster:
- Noting the back lights behind the power button, the SET button and the RESume buttons on all MCCruise switches and the small time delay (~1 second) which occurs between switching the key on and the MCCruise module entering the main cruise control program and sending power to those back lights.
Note that any button presses at power-up must be maintained until the back lights come on and then immediately released, to enter special modes - Diagnostic mode, Coarse Gain mode and all others.
- Testing the power supply and MCCruise module functions using the STOP codes (how to get STOP codes and what they mean can be found on page 4 of the MCS10000TBW Trouble Shooting Guide linked here.)
View our brief video detailing the steps involved.
- Passing the BRAKE TEST which ensures:
The Power switch is being recognised by the MCCruise module;
Front Brake application is being recognised by the MCCruise Module.
- Displaying the STOP code on the SWITCH - MCCruise only displays the relevant STOP code until power is turned off. Power down loses the correct code. In many installations, the MCCruise module displaying the STOP code on the RED LED cannot be accessed without turning the bike's key off - so we developed a system to MIRROR the STOP code on the switch at any time if the bike is stationary and the POWER button on the switch pressed and held until the switch LED starts flashing.
- Testing the SET key on your switch - if your cruise control module recognises the SET key being pressed on your switch, the STOP code will change from 11 (one long flash =10 plus 1 short flash=11 in total) to TWO short flashes indicating the MCCruise cannot engage as it doesn't have a speed signal (because the bike is not moving).
- Testing the RESume button on your switch - Ensure the key is off and your MCCruise module has no power - no LEDs flashing or constant. Depress AND HOLD the RES button while switching the key on, until the back lights come on and the switch LED starts flashing yellow - then immediately release the RES button. You have successfully entered Coarse Gain mode and your MCCruise module is recognising the RES button.
This completes the SWITCH function test. If all steps complete successfully, move on to Diagnostic Mode testing and Throttle Calibration:
- Enter Diagnostic Mode - by pressing the Power button AND the SET button concurrently and holding them while you turn the key on and releasing immediately the back lights come on and the LED turns green. The green LED will go out when you release the buttons.
- Test the brakes - pressing the front brake to activate the brake lights and/or the rear brake - should turn on the GREEN LED on the switch when the brakes are pressed, Your front brake switch is not adjustable, but you should setup your rear brake switch to activate the brake lights just before you get brake pedal pressure so you can turn off the cruise without upsetting the balance of the bike.
- Testing the clutch switch - the clutch switch, side stand switch, neutral gear position and engine starter lockout are linked on modern bikes. The clutch switch test must only be performed with the bike in ANY gear and the side stand UP.
- Testing the TACH signal connection - MCCruise connects to tach signal to monitor engine RPM and cross-reference it to road speed. Because clutch switches usually activate only when the clutch lever is pulled in almost to the bar, the clutch will be slipping way before the switch activates to disengage the cruise control. (This is the main reason the brakes or COAST function should be the main way you disengage your MCCruise control while in operation.) In Diagnostic Mode, with the engine running, the RED LED on the MCCruise module flashes in sync withe engine RPM - as engine revs rise, the flash rate will increase, if it is correctly connected.
That concludes Diagnostic mode testing, so you can move on to Throttle Calibration, which is accessed from WITHIN the Diagnostic mode routine:
- Frank details the steps in Throttle Calibration in detail in your hard-copy manuals, so I will not reiterate them here. Suffice it to say it is critical to follow all the steps to completion AND go back into Diagnostic Mode to TEST whether the calibration was successful, BEFORE undertaking a road test. Hopefully the video of the procedure will make it clearer for customers what to do, what to expect and which steps save information to the module. Note that ALL calibration data is finally only saved WHEN THE KEY IS TURNED OFF and the bike is stationary!
If the calibration is NOT successful, it is highly likely your bike will go into LIMP mode as soon as you try to engage the cruise control.